In recent years there has been an enormous amount of activity developing the sport climbing crags and new climbing areas along the A55 expressway corridor in North Wales between Llanddulas and Penmaenmawr. Sport climbing is becoming increasingly popular in the UK, partly as British climbers are seduced by the delights of bolt clipping in the European sunshine and have come to enjoy the convenience of sport climbing, the easy route finding and technically challenging routes that are relatively safe when compared with traditional ones.
The crags in this guide are all easily accessible and it’s a fun area. There is good climbing here, much that is new and it will repay full day visits as well as dipping in to bag a few routes on the way back from Anglesey or Snowdonia. Including Llanddulas Cave, Castle Inn Quarry and Fine View Wall, Penmaen Head, The Gallery, Notice Board Crag and Penmaen-bach Quarry. With 166 routes ranging from F4 to F7C+, its popularity is assured.
Chris Doyle making the first ascent of “Flowstone Shuffle” (F6b+ ***) on Flowstone Wall at Penmaen Head on 20/08/07. Photo: M. Doyle
Pesda Press are currently working with Michael Doyle to produce A55 Sport Climbs. Work on the manuscript is finished and the book is now being typeset. Michael has provided some great photos but we are always keen to have a good a selection as possible. If anyone would like to contribute any action shots to the guide can they please send hi res files with a caption and the name of the photographer for the credits to peter at pesdapress.com. All we can offer in exchange is a free copy of the guide and, with your name immortalized in print, a whiff of ‘fame and glory’.
The book will be published on the 1st of April 2010. More details to follow early in the new year.
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